Ubud Part Three: From the Mountains and Besakih to the Art of Pampering

Still on our little island in Indonesia.

We arrived on Halloween and haven't left since.  
Can you blame us?

When we're not at happy hour we spend most of our time reading in our hammocks or beach chairs, snorkeling with sea turtles, spear fishing (you know which one of us is attempting that) and walking the perimeter of the island once the sun begins to set or just after it has risen.  During the day, it is HOT.  I guess this is to be expected when you're practically ON the equator.  But we don't have too many complaints these days :)

More on Lombok later, and back to our last few days in Bali.

***** 
  

Besakih, a group of over twenty temples  spread over nearly two miles and set along the slopes of Mount Agung is a sacred place for Balinese Hindus.  They believe the gods occasionally enter the temple and reside there.  We set out for the long trip by motorbike, through small villages and past Bali’s most beautiful and famous mountains, dodging Polisi as we went.  What?  Do YOU have an international driver’s license?  We are rebels, I know.

After a two hour drive we made it.

Unfortunately there were groups of young men hassling us with fabricated stories about how we “needed a Balinese temple guardian” (for a fee of course) to even walk around the temple’s complex.  One man eventually revealed that that wasn’t actually true, so our self tour finally began.

On the way back to Ubud we stopped in Klunkung, stopping to see the home of city’s ancient king.

 
There were a variety of Hindu processionals stopping traffic as we made our way back to Ubud. 

 

We saw our last dance that evening, the best we’d seen in Bali.  

{Balinese dancing deserves its own post-when I have the time back at home to look over the many photos and videos we took at the three dances we saw}

*****

We made our last full day in Ubud a relaxing one.  

An early walk led us through rice paddies and Bali’s lush green jungle.

The rest of the morning was spent perusing the buildings that compose NEKA, the island’s most famous art museum.

 

We ate lunch across the street at Naughty Nuri’s, known for its barbecue.  Spicy chicken for Ryan,  Indonesian veggies with bean sauce for me.

After lunch we pampered ourselves at one of Ubud’s many spas.  Together we had a side by side couple’s massage.  To follow I had a body scrub, floral bath, facial, hair treatment, manicure and pedicure.  I decided spa days like that need to happen at least once a year for me.  
In Bali, if possible!
 

The next day we flew to neighboring Lombok, where we are now.  

Updates on our three stops (Kuta, Sengeggi and Gili Meno) in the works :)

Ubud Part Two: Sightseeing, Market, Man Sarongs & Mexican Food

We hopped on a scooter to sightsee on our first full day in Ubud.
{That was an adventure in its own right, since traffic in Indonesia drives on the left side of the road.  Definitely took some getting use to!} 
   We set out to explore the villages and sights on the outskirts of town, passing by shops where artists carved huge and elaborate wood furniture and sculptures.  
The winding roads led us through lush rice paddies, green jungle and small villages.  We stopped often to ask locals to point us in the right direction and to get a closer view of the numerous Hindu temples lining the road.  We got lost a few times, but with the gorgeous scenery (and great company) we didn't mind.  

Most of the road looked like this.

 

And we filled up the scooter with these.

We couldn’t resist stopping for a view of Bali’s spectacular rice fields.  

And all we had to do to see them was pull over.  A bit more simple than our viewing in Batad...

Eventually we found Gunung Kawi, an eleventh century memorial set in a beautiful location.

Our next stop was the fourteenth century carvings that make up Yeh Pulu.   
It took us a little while to find it since we were asking for directions to "Bedulu" and it's actually near the town of "Petulu" or maybe the other way around... 
But we found it and it proved worth the trip as we were nearly alone among the unique carvings and a hidden waterfall.

The last stop of the day was Suwati Market.  The bustling space was filled with produce, baked goods, fabric, clothing and accessories.

 

Also for sale were the colorful ingredients for people to make their own daily Hindu offerings.

The sweet owner of our guesthouse had told us it was the place for local bargains.  Since a sarong is required at all temples we decided it would be easier to purchase our own rather than rent them each time before entering.  The saleswomen had a ball dressing Ryan in traditional Hindu attire. 

Back in Ubud for dinner we found a Mexican restaurant (hallelujah!) which turned out to be the best food of its kind since leaving the states.  Thank you Wikitravel!  Our nachos were made from fresh cut corn tortillas and the burritos were loaded with guacamole, tart sour cream and delicious pico de gallo.  I had a real lime margarita!  

 Lime margarita!  Made with lime.

 Did you hear that Korea?  Margaritas are made with LIME.  This is brand new information, I know.

After dinner we took in another dance, this time the Ramyana Ballet at the grand Ubud Water Palace which was even more delightful than dinner.  

Or at least it was equivalent.

Ubud Part One: Macacaque Monkey Forest

Ubud is the cultural capital of Bali.  The city recently became even more well known thanks to the bestselling book Eat Pray Love.  In this memoir the author faces a semi-mid-life crisis, and spends some time in Ubud seeking answers from a Balinese medicine man.  

{He can still be summoned for a reading today although his answers may not be objective.}

A French gentleman Ryan had dived with in Tulamben recommended a guesthouse in the city that turned out to be perfect for us.  Spacious bungalows faced a swimming pool and breakfast was served on our private patio each morning. 

{banana pancake, tropical fruit with lime and black tea}

On our first afternoon in town we strolled through Ubud’s MonkeyForest.   

The area is home to approximately six  hundred Macacaques who calmly roam the vicinity until they find tourists hiding bananas in their pockets.  Then they get crazy.  After the hissing we saw, I won’t be crossing a wild monkey anytime soon.  To borrow the words of my guidebook: “The monkeys are nothing like the doe-eyed animal on the forest’s brochure.”  

Except these guys.

  
And even the ones that aren't as docile are just as cute.

We especially loved the baby who clung to its mommy's belly when she changed locations.

I kept my distance in case of a monkey attack.  

 

The Monkey Forest also houses three Hindu temples.  After donning the appropriate attire (sarongs and sashes) we entered one of the temples, just as a ceremonial procession made its way through.  

{Added bonus that the sarongs and sashes were Oregon Duck colors!}

In the evening we took in a traditional Barong and Keris dance.   
The story is one of the most famous in Balinese culture and the dancing was more unique and entrancing than any other we’ve seen. 

What those women do with their eyes!  Wow.