Adventures in Lombok Part Two: Gili Meno

Hello from Singapore!

I love this country, and I'm not just saying that because I was able to upload photos in 1/72 of the time it took me to do the same in anywhere in Bali or Lombok...

We've spent four nights here and feel right at home being back in a big city.  It has been so much fun to see the sights, eat the local food, and visit with a college friend's aunt who has been sweet enough to host us during our time here.

Today we are heading to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia!  

Updates on Singapore soon, but first back to the two weeks spent on our tiny island...

***** 

On Halloween Day we took a glass bottom boat across the ocean to the tiny island of Gili Meno.  

“The Gilis” as they are known, are a group of three small islands west of mainland Lombok.  GiliTrawangan is the “party” island, Gili Meno is the quiet island, and Gili Air is somewhere in the middle.  We settled on Gili Meno, popular with couples and honeymooners due to the non-existence of nightlife and its reputation of having the best beaches.  On the recommendation of a former co-worker we found the perfect guesthouse and settled into vacation.  We wanted time to relax midway through our three month trip and take some time to unpack somewhere for longer than three or four days.  Gili Meno was the perfect place.  

We swam, snorkeled, lounged, read, took walks, ate delicious food (I think we tried the tofu curry at every restaurant on the island), watched the sun rise and set, and gazed at stars that we haven’t seen since moving to Korea last summer.  We also noted the nocturnal wildlife: crabs of all shapes and sizes that scurried across our path as we returned home from dinners out.  On Sunday mornings we logged in to Ryan’s dad’s slingbox  (thank you!) and watched our Ducks defeat USC and California.

{I wrote this pre-Stanford loss and no, I don't want to talk about it.}

  Ryan tried his hand at spear fishing.  We ate shrimp and triggerfish that night.

  

 

 

There are no motorized vehicles on any of the Gilis, just cidomos (horse drawn carriages).  

 

Power on the island is supplied by generators and fresh water is brought in by boat.   Our bathroom had only cool salt water, but we didn’t mind.  We saved $2.50 each night by not requesting fresh water showers.  We spent that money on chocolate milkshakes.  And sometimes on beer.

 

Aside from hearing the parties on Gili Trawangan and Gili Air across the water some nights, very salty hair, a jellyfish sting and a fish bite, it was a perfect trip.  We had a hard time leaving that last day, after twelve before it.  

Ice cream pancakes for breakfast helped to soften the blow.

  

We already miss Gili Meno but can't wait to see what adventures Malaysia holds.

Adventures in Lombok Part One: Kuta & Sengeggi

Hello for the last time from Indonesia!

We are heading to Singapore in less than fifteen hours!

Although we loved our time in Bali and Lombok, we're ready for a change of scenery.

Here's what we did during the second half of our time in Indonesia.

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Our time in mainland Lombok was short but sweet. 

 

We spent two nights in the small beach town of Kuta.

  

It was nothing like the city of the same name in Bali, with no pushy vendors, only a few main streets, and nearly deserted white sand beaches.  Our brief stint in Kuta, Lombok consisted of fresh fish dinners, scooter rides sightseeing through town, and Ryan’s first surf attempt in years.  He met a trio of young Spanish ex-pats who split a boat and breaks with him.  I relaxed on one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever laid eyes on and laughed as a group of young boys yelled at me to watch their tricks on an old surfboard.

 “Me photo too!” a young girl shouted.

Oh, and we saw some familiar faces near the beach as well.

Our next stop in Lombok was Senggegi on the northwest coast.

 

 

We loved the unofficial spots designated to watch the sun set, where locals would share a blanket and some corn on the cob.

We spent a day scootering around the island to find the Sendang Gile waterfalls.

Two hours on our scooter and one flat tire (our travel companions’) later we made it.

Our guide took us over some questionable stairs and a very interesting bridge.  We waded through rushing water and across slippery rocks.

“Are there leeches here?”  I asked.  (I have developed an unhealthy fear of leeches since reading about them in one of our guidebooks.)

“Only in the rainy season”, our guide mercifully responded.

This better be worth it, I thought to myself.  

It was.

 

The falls were stunning.  And freezing.  They literally took my breath away as we took a very refreshing swim.

Our guide then led us to a second waterfall, believed to make those who swim in it one year younger.  Ryan joked that the teens frolicking in the water could be in their late eighties.

 

Then it was time for a trip across the ocean to the Gilis!

Ubud Part Two: Sightseeing, Market, Man Sarongs & Mexican Food

We hopped on a scooter to sightsee on our first full day in Ubud.
{That was an adventure in its own right, since traffic in Indonesia drives on the left side of the road.  Definitely took some getting use to!} 
   We set out to explore the villages and sights on the outskirts of town, passing by shops where artists carved huge and elaborate wood furniture and sculptures.  
The winding roads led us through lush rice paddies, green jungle and small villages.  We stopped often to ask locals to point us in the right direction and to get a closer view of the numerous Hindu temples lining the road.  We got lost a few times, but with the gorgeous scenery (and great company) we didn't mind.  

Most of the road looked like this.

 

And we filled up the scooter with these.

We couldn’t resist stopping for a view of Bali’s spectacular rice fields.  

And all we had to do to see them was pull over.  A bit more simple than our viewing in Batad...

Eventually we found Gunung Kawi, an eleventh century memorial set in a beautiful location.

Our next stop was the fourteenth century carvings that make up Yeh Pulu.   
It took us a little while to find it since we were asking for directions to "Bedulu" and it's actually near the town of "Petulu" or maybe the other way around... 
But we found it and it proved worth the trip as we were nearly alone among the unique carvings and a hidden waterfall.

The last stop of the day was Suwati Market.  The bustling space was filled with produce, baked goods, fabric, clothing and accessories.

 

Also for sale were the colorful ingredients for people to make their own daily Hindu offerings.

The sweet owner of our guesthouse had told us it was the place for local bargains.  Since a sarong is required at all temples we decided it would be easier to purchase our own rather than rent them each time before entering.  The saleswomen had a ball dressing Ryan in traditional Hindu attire. 

Back in Ubud for dinner we found a Mexican restaurant (hallelujah!) which turned out to be the best food of its kind since leaving the states.  Thank you Wikitravel!  Our nachos were made from fresh cut corn tortillas and the burritos were loaded with guacamole, tart sour cream and delicious pico de gallo.  I had a real lime margarita!  

 Lime margarita!  Made with lime.

 Did you hear that Korea?  Margaritas are made with LIME.  This is brand new information, I know.

After dinner we took in another dance, this time the Ramyana Ballet at the grand Ubud Water Palace which was even more delightful than dinner.  

Or at least it was equivalent.

Ubud Part One: Macacaque Monkey Forest

Ubud is the cultural capital of Bali.  The city recently became even more well known thanks to the bestselling book Eat Pray Love.  In this memoir the author faces a semi-mid-life crisis, and spends some time in Ubud seeking answers from a Balinese medicine man.  

{He can still be summoned for a reading today although his answers may not be objective.}

A French gentleman Ryan had dived with in Tulamben recommended a guesthouse in the city that turned out to be perfect for us.  Spacious bungalows faced a swimming pool and breakfast was served on our private patio each morning. 

{banana pancake, tropical fruit with lime and black tea}

On our first afternoon in town we strolled through Ubud’s MonkeyForest.   

The area is home to approximately six  hundred Macacaques who calmly roam the vicinity until they find tourists hiding bananas in their pockets.  Then they get crazy.  After the hissing we saw, I won’t be crossing a wild monkey anytime soon.  To borrow the words of my guidebook: “The monkeys are nothing like the doe-eyed animal on the forest’s brochure.”  

Except these guys.

  
And even the ones that aren't as docile are just as cute.

We especially loved the baby who clung to its mommy's belly when she changed locations.

I kept my distance in case of a monkey attack.  

 

The Monkey Forest also houses three Hindu temples.  After donning the appropriate attire (sarongs and sashes) we entered one of the temples, just as a ceremonial procession made its way through.  

{Added bonus that the sarongs and sashes were Oregon Duck colors!}

In the evening we took in a traditional Barong and Keris dance.   
The story is one of the most famous in Balinese culture and the dancing was more unique and entrancing than any other we’ve seen. 

What those women do with their eyes!  Wow.